Though I have been exposed to Koi-Nobori (carp streamers) since childhood, I've never felt the need to own one. As time passed and I became a parent, I found myself unexpectedly moved by their presence. Life is often woven together through a series of moments - past, present and future - that align in the most surprising of ways. Our encounter with these Koi-Nobori from “La Mano” was just such a chance meeting.
When you think of Koi-Nobori, you might imagine an image of a carp printed on nylon or polyester fabric, but the ones crafted by "La Mano" are indigo-dyed carp streamers. They are slightly smaller in size, which is perfect for displaying at home. Each one is handmade, dyed with a natural pigment, and perhaps, because of that, you can’t help but feel an unwavering sense of life flowing from its rounded mouth to the tips of its tail.
The creators are “Craft Studio La Mano,” a work program in a disability facility based in Machida. We later learned that it is a place where people with various disabilities engage in craftsmanship. We visited the workshop and spoke with the facility’s director, Kenji Takano.
“This workshop started in 1992. Until then, there were few workshop facilities in Machida offering work programs for the disabled. It was established primarily by art class teachers of children with disabilities and their attending parents. At first, there was only one member (we refer to those who work here as “members” and the people who support them as “staff”), but now, the number has grown to 46 and in a wide range of ages, from their 20s to around 50 years old.”
In addition to setting up looms in a 100-year-old traditional Japanese house and using it as a weaving studio, several new workshop buildings have been constructed. The entire site spans approximately 3,000 square meters.
“La Mano” means “The Hand” in Spanish. It represents the five forms of handcrafting practiced in the workshop: dying, tying (a stitching technique used to create patterns on fabric), weaving, sewing and drawing. Each member takes on the task they enjoy and excel at."
In the fields, they grow indigo leaves that are used for dyeing, as well as cotton plants that become the thread. The grounds are surrounded by rich natural scenery, with eucalyptus trees that have grown tall like those in a rural village.
“Koi-Nobori brought to lift
with soul”
The Koi-Nobori from “La Mano” is made using a discharge dyeing technique. Unlike the more common method of applying glue to areas you don’t want to be dyed and adding colors around them, this process begins by dyeing the entire fabric a solid color, then applying a glue containing color remover to draw the patterns. As the glue removes color from the drawn areas, the design gradually emerges.
“Originally, the idea to create Koi-Nobori came by wondering if the indigo dyeing techniques we used when making Tenugui (Japanese traditional hand towel) would apply to other items. Dyeing the entire fabric first allowed other members of the dyeing team the opportunity to be more involved in the process, which is why we chose to use the discharge dyeing method.”
Here we dye not only threads for weaving but also fabrics for items such as Tenugui, Furoshiki (wrapping cloth) and T-shirts.
A tub filled with indigo dye. Indigo is prepared by mixing it with an alkaline lye solution. The wood ash used to make the lye is brought in kindly by local coffee shops that have fireplaces and neighbors from within the community.
At this workshop, the dyeing is mainly carried out by two members. On the day of our visit, we met Nishizawa, a seasoned veteran with 26 years of experience. Humming softly to himself as he spoke, he moved his hands and body with quiet purpose, steadily dyeing each piece with a focused gaze.
The dyeing process he showed us is as follows: First, the fabric is moved gently through a tub of indigo dye. Next, the fabric is washed in water to remove excess dirt (Which transforms the cloth from a dull, kelp-like color to a vibrant indigo). Then, it's spread out to dry so that it can come into contact with oxygen in the air and develop its color. This process is repeated 4-5 times for the clear light blue baby carp and 8-10 times for the navy blue carp and Yaguruma Kazari (the top decoration in the opening photo of the article) to develop their colors.
"We have tubs for each concentration of indigo dye and use different ones depending on the color saturation we want to achieve. We only use light dyes for the baby carp, for the Magoi (big carp) and Yaguruma Kazari, we gradually change from light to darker tones to avoid uneven color dyeing. In either case, the colors come out better on days with more oxygen in the air, so sunny days are better for working than rainy days."
Once the fabric has turned indigo, it is time for the discharge printing process. A stencil with the Koi-Nobori design is placed over the fabric, then the glue containing color remover is applied. After letting it dry for a while, the final step is sewing, completing the process.
"The glue application process for stencil dyeing is quite difficult, so we sometimes outsource the sewing to another workshop within the area. With the support of so many different people, each becomes a beautiful piece of art."
About 1,000 of all colors are born and sent out.
“A job where the frustration is part of the charm”
So far, the red Higoi hasn’t appeared, this is because red is particularly difficult to dye evenly across an entire fabric. A different method is used for this one. Moreover, it is done in a much more time-consuming way.
"We use a technique called "Hikizome" in which a Koi-shaped stencil is applied to resist the glue, then a dye is brushed over the fabric multiple times. The dye comes from Indian madder, a plant-based source, but since cotton doesn’t easily absorb it on its own, we first apply a base layer using Gojiru (liquid made from ground soybeans). To bring out the pattern clearly, Funori (a type of seaweed) is also applied, along with a dye-resistant liquid, to help the dye develop properly. Finally, the fabric is steamed to set the color. It’s a process that involves many intricate steps.”
During the production process, the eye sometimes bleeds or the fabric frays, which happens quite often. When we suggested that these imperfections might add to the charm of handmade work, Takano shook his head.
“It might be fine if others say that, but if we as the makers start saying "that’s a part of the charm,” it becomes too easy to overlook and let things slide. Our desire is not to have people think that our products are valuable just because they were made by people with disabilities, but rather to have them buy them because they value the careful craftsmanship, expression and sensibility behind each piece. That’s why we always aim to maintain high quality. Carp streamers in particular are traditional symbols of success and good fortune.”
Items that are deemed unsuitable for sale are recycled into dishcloths, or the fabric is cut up and used as material for weaving. The Noren (traditional Japanese fabric dividers) and curtains hanging in the facility are products of chance, made by stitching together clearance items.
Takano, who has been working here since 2000, smiles as he talks about how creating things in this workshop is interesting. The reason is that you can't do everything.
“Our role as staff members is to combine what our disabled members can do comfortably with techniques such as dyeing and weaving to create high-quality and attractive items. It is precisely because we are faced with constraints that we are able to create amazing things that we never expected. It doesn’t always work out right away, and so we will try a new method only to fail again. We have had the experience of repeatedly going through trial and error and creating something that exceeds our imagination. It’s fun to think about the future when we fail, and it’s the frustrating times that make it interesting. Maybe that’s what work and life are like.”
La Mano
La Mano | Dyeing and weaving workshop in Machida, Tokyo. It was established in 1992 as a place of employment for people with disabilities and focuses on dyeing and hand weaving using natural materials and art production. Applications for the “Indigo and plant hand-dyed Koi-Nobori 5-piece set” (¥45,100), introduced in the article, are available online around the beginning of the new year. Pink and green baby carp are also available individually in limited quantities. In addition, various handmade works are sold, such as tenugui, bags, pouches, shawls, and socks, all woven from thread dyed in the workshop. Postcards and calendars depicting the artworks are also available.
photo: Naoki Honjo
text: Shoko Yoshida
edit: Tamio Ogasawara
